Making Sense of the Runway

So, you comb through Style.com regularly, but do you know what you are really looking at? Shannon breaks down a collection so that you can get the info you need to distill and get the look!

By Shannon Gifford

Watching a designer’s collection parading down a runway is exciting, but it can also be a bit overwhelming. While the show is intended to be a gallery of clothing, very often a designer will add many artistic elements to the mix. What is actually wearable? And what can we take home in our idea file for future sewing? A methodical approach to reading the runway is not difficult and can provide you with at least one afternoon’s worth of fun.

Begin by choosing two or three designers. Try to choose at least one with whose name you are familiar. Choose a second designer who is totally unfamiliar and choose the third at your own whim.

Open a spreadsheet on your computer, and make a column for each designer. If you prefer to work with pencil and paper, make three columns, one for each designer’s name. On the left side, write down several elements to explore. I recommend the following to start: color, length, shape, and details.

Now look at the first designer on your list. Take a look at everything in the collection; I recommend using the slideshow feature on www.style.com Look briefly at each piece in the entire collection; don’t linger on any one garment at this point.

As our example, we’ll look at the Valentino collection for fall 2007.

Turn to your spreadsheet. Think about the overall impression you have of the collection. What colors do you remember most vividly? In our Valentino examples, there are two basic color stories: bright, clear colors over black, and tweedy browns.

Now look at the lengths, and note them on your spreadsheet. For jackets, there are waist-length, fingertip-length, and knee-length coats. For skirts, we have a length that hits just below the knee, and a length that is a couple of inches above the knee. (On people who are not professional models, these skirts would probably hit just above the kneecap.)

Next we look at the overall silhouette. Is it slim? Boxy? Fitted? Is there a great deal of volume? In this collection, the silhouette is fitted, but not overly so. A relaxed fit would be a good description, with primarily slim-lined base garments (pants and skirts).

Finally, look at details. Here are a few of the Valentino details from this season:
The details that are of note in these photographs are:

From photo 1:
•    The stand-out collar, which appears to be padded
•    The simple lines of the blouse worn underneath
•    The self-fabric covered buttons
•    The multiple darts

From photo 2:
• The multiple topstitching on the collar
• The use of lace for the high-neck garment worn under the wool coat

From photo 3:
• The beaded buckle

From photo 4:
• Patent leather accessories
• Gloves

From photos 5 and 6:
• The use of textured fabrics

At this point, your spreadsheet or chart will have a great deal of information about the Valentino collection. Repeat the process for your other chosen designers. Note if there are any great similarities or significant differences. What do you like? What would you wear? What do you think you could sew?

Perhaps you’d like to make something reminiscent of the Valentino collection. Based on our observations, the following is one solution: a bright colored, knee-length textured wool coat over black pants with a lace high-neck blouse, patent leather accessories, and black leather gloves should be perfect.

Shannon Gifford has written for Threads, teaches online classes at PatternReview.com, and still has time to have her own newsletter and site at www.sensiblesewing.com Check her out!